Latest update: January 8th - 2022
12 photos added

That's how it all started (July 3rd - 2019)
The vertical belt around a landing pod
Every cut has to be angled
More angled pieces
I REALLY could have used some more hands here...
The top of the pod is closing up
Top + middle belt of the pod
Down to the bottom of the case
Corner pieces...
...for the bottom finish
Like that... one basic pod done... three more to go
Thickness added for the landing foot
Even though it's hollow below, it looks as it should
Now to the top of the foot
I do not have access to a cnc machine... everything is done by hand
Strange patterns... cut with jigsaw
to fit this strange thing
Fits (almost) like a glove
Bottom view
Mounted on top of the foot... begins to look recognizable
It's a kind of magic
On to the next three feet
Half done with the underside, and the lights went out
All four feet now soled
Looks better from above
88 'toes' measuered, cut and placed loosely
88 toes x 4 = 352 rounded corners... phew
Parts for the three remaining pods
Just like that... a bit refined construction
The top finished
Cut aways for the lower part sides
Now the lower finishing parts... more feet
...with supporting sides
All corner pieces and side panels now glued together
Details cut for the vertical sides. Placed with template
MAX pressure for max glue effect
Three on line
More pressure delivered by Max
Start of decoration. The pod details. One side...
...the other two sides. Top sides next...
Trapez x 16
I did not have wood that thick... glue and screw...
...made nice blocks
4 noses
Details cut with jigsaw for the top part.
Glued on... left wing...
...and right wing
Now to these little fellas... the Gemini parts
I had six half spheres hand made (not by myself)
Maybe slightly too big, but I think it is okay.
Daniel Prud'Homme helped me with the details
Good old technical drawing
Calculating and measuring...
Template... made... for the 12 holes for the bolts.
One more template for the off-center placement.
The six half spheres got marked...
...and on with the band grinder.
6 discs measured and cut.
One ready to mount.
...and 5 more
72 holes drilled and 72 bolts mounted
Large center hole drilled.
Not the correct tube yet... but we're getting there.
Stainless steel tube for the centre
Now for the Saturn V part
It took some thinking... to think the design out
Small cylinders cut from a stick
for another nose
Noses with holes
Rough wings
A model was created
gonna watch my fingertips
All survived
Then a little grinding with the grinding mouse
16 small wings
Now make some place for them
Handmade... takes time
But the time goes by - as time does
These holes wasn't as easy as I thought
Because the bolts had square shape beneath the head
And the thread wasn't cut all the way up either
But finally...!
Looks as it should - I think
A status parade
All cracks, screwholes and sides...
...padded up (one pod only... for now)
A3 prints taped together for the Command Module.
Measuring en masse...
The back side of the CM
Horizontal ribs added...
...and vertical ribs added
Direct back view
Two more vertical...
The puzzle pieces taken apart to double up...
...for the 'downunder' part
Status March 13th - 2020
2 x back side ribs finished
Cutout for the top (or bottom) alu 'disc'
Support for the alu 'disc'
Both top and bottom 'disc-housing' done
One side disc (housing) done...
...other side disc (housing) done
all panels are now glued together - and edges sanded...
...sanded to make a smooth surface for... sticks!
I have tried to copy these as close as possible
The boosters on the 44" studio Eagle 1 are angled
78 degrees.... circa
A thin wooden disc, very fragile to cut, do the trick
It do matter how the discs are placed.
90 degrees flat on the block... or on the bell... like this
These really looks nice on the pod
deserves a closer look
Back to the sticks... lots of sticks... looking rough...
...until sanded down. No sticks are the same shape.
Top view... middle section of sticks sanded down.
One flank of sticks glued on... not yet sanded.
Opposite side flank... not yet sanded.
A front row of sticks added.
And now to the back side of the Command Module.
Two columns.
Right flank sanded
Three columns.
Corner part and sanding.
Necessary weight reduction.... for my back!
More sticks... to the right... the left
Left corner...
...closing up.
Left and right back side sanded smooth.
The middle section panel also weight lightened.
Placed... and glued on.
Pressure to secure tight fit.
Side ribs in place and glued on. Additional nose panels.
Nose tip sticks... rough...
...and sanded down.
Right side... under window section sticks.
Right side sticks completed.
Crack at window...
...every stick shaped independently.
Smooth fit.
Right side sticks sanded.
Left side sticks before sanding.
Suddenly some 'bling-bling' arrived for the CM.
They really decorates beautifully!
Top side done for now.
More weight reduction.
Opposite side panels in place.
Nose tip panels... ready for sticks.
Small special shaped sticks.
2 x 57 = 114 sticks used for the nose tip.
Left and right flank of oblong sticks.
The horizontal belt are too thick. Gotta adjust, but how?
Some heavy sanding helped... but was it enough!?
A little colour added (in Photoshop).
Batten supports for the removable downside triangles.
Lots of holes drilled for weight reduce.
Also at the back.
Ready for sticks adding...
All different shapes.
Extra supports added for the round 'thingy'.
And more special shaped sticks.
It fits nicely.
It's a puzzle.
Maybe a bit boring (for some) with all those sticks.
But progres shows.... slowly.
Both flanks now 'sticked'... but I see something is missing.
Weight reduce holes... drilled.
Left back side getting sticked.
And right back side.
The upper and lower halves put together...
...for a show beside a 22" model.
Back side edges grinded smooth... left...
...and right.
Fail hollows in the wood appears later when sanding.
Status december 13th 2020.
Additional template for the corner.
Finished corner panel (other side).
Sticking the corner... left column.
Sticking the corner... right column.
Both corners now closed up, leaves the difficult gap.
An additional half ring made for separation purpose..
Building up sticks around the 'disc holder'.
First column.
Second column closed up. The third will have to wait.
Back view all cornered up.
The opposite side also closed up around the ring.
The special wooden block is cut into two for a reason.
This is where the two halves are going to separate.
Back view all sanded smooth.
Final gap closing up. Top sticks needs special attention.
Customization by hand (and band grinder) as usual.
Very slowly grinding progress makes perfect fit.
Finally! for one side.
Looking more and more complete.
See you in the mirror.
All sanded nice and smooth.
Now for the other side... the final gap.
Both sides now completely closed up.
And luckily the two halves still did separate!
An extra ring sawed and glued on to reach level.
Other side.
Also for the top and bottom.
And then... sanding...
And dirting...
...until I ran out of sanding paper.
Had to order new supplies.
And then on to finish.
Unforseen bad luck struck...
A hole appeared in my experimental structure.
Additional wood stick and filler.
Ready for the next chapter.
Now for the exalted details. I changed my mind...
...and decided to cut down instead of add more weight.
I thought this was straight forward measuring... but no.
These lines shall be straight to look at... but weren't.
A new method needed.
My old Flexicurve from school came in handy.
And helped me make a template.
Now the lines has to be straight!
I had to adjust the template for each line.
Because of the rounding change along the 'nose back.'
I present a new toy... a router... this should be fun
This maybe look easy, but believe me...
...handling the router in free hand made me sweat!!
Now to some lines on the rest of the module.
Quite a lot of measuring. Checking photos and drawings.
Here I have sharpened the pencil up in Photoshop.
Close up pencil lines.
This is what I love and are my actual education.
But nevertheless... LOTS of rubber shavings on the floor.
Pencil lines on the back of the module.
Double checking drawings and photos from the web.
Both side drawn.
Top and bottom ready for the router.
More surprise hollows appeared on my way.
Again... lining up the side were a pain to get correct.
It was quite frustrating.
Afterwards I came to think of a laser liner.
That would have been real handy.
But after lots of rubbering they finally looked right.
Complete lines - front.
Complete lines - back.
Now on with the router. Concentration.
Softening with the grinding mouse.
And correcting with the file.
Here's why all the sticks had to be trapez shaped.
Here's my second work with the router
Better lighting. Looks quite okay I think.
And the back side left and right.
I should have timestamped the photos.
Here it is clear how easily the router went off track.
And here... which needed following attention.
But it is just a matter of time.
At last...!
Oh.... I forgot... there's another half side.
With those 'exciting' sides.
I did a lot of 'hold my breath' while routing.
But it paid off.
Now it really look right.
I'll let the photos...
...speak for themselves.
Next thing coming up....
A bit wood work still needed before the tubes.
Two frames completed to keep tubes fixated.
Alternative tower drilling machine.
And then cup drill.
Those corks got stuck inside each and single time.
Finally. After intense measuring and drilling.
A little oldfashioned finish.
The wooden parts ready.
16 special tabs made to support the tubes.
Finally unpacking. I need 8 x 540mm straight cut.
Fitting the Ø40mm tubes.
Then kept fixed between the two frames.
Milling cutting...
...makes those 'fish mouths'...
...for perfect fit.
Status March 21st 2021.
Obligue tubes mounted temporarely.
And the short side tubes. The thinner horizontal.
More fish mouths... those obligue tubes can be pushed in place.
Four tubes meets
Five tubes!
The first diagonal...
...and the first cross done!!
Some time went by before I was able to weld...
...early in progress I decided to weld inside of the cage only. It looked too ugly no matter how nice a weld I made.
Apart from the two small tube to finish the X...
first cage now done.
And without it's supporting taps.
Eight new special taps with a diving collar was made.
To build the next cage on top of the first.
To have them perfectly match up.
And freed from supporting frame.
Suddenly three cages were done...
...and ready for the fourth.
Me in action.
Al the tubes became very HOT while welding.
Two pair of cages.
And now to the last two pieces to complete the X.
With this I got CNC help from my brother in law.
These were tricky... but after some time, they did fit.
Here's an illusion photo... before the X was actual made.
Primitve, but effective tool I made to keep the pieces fixed.
Top (one side) X's done.
And the other side. Four cages completed.
Laid down and pulled apart.
But back together again to spare floor room.
But it looks nice.
Tunnel view....
Now to the rear enginge section.
I needed more hands...
...but large clamps helped me.
Now what....
Eight longitudinal tubes added. I lacked hands again.
And again, but Kurt gave a helping hand holding tubes.
Rear section done - except for the four rings...
...for the engine bells.
Now on to the...... spine!!! And the Ø 50mm tubes.
I cut the longest tubes for the spine (Ø 40mm).
And couldn't help myself dragging it all outside.
Into the bright evening daylight, casting long shadows.
First cut... in both ends Ø 40mm.
Second... milling for the 47 degree angels.
Loosely setup - all Ø 40mm
Herd of Minions - Ø 50mm.
Ø 50mm packed in box
Ø 50mm wrapped around three meeting Ø 40mm.
Left 133 degree - right 47 degree.
Inside look.
133 degree.
47 degree.
Now for the longitude tubes.
Can't explain HOW difficult these two tubes
were to slide into the middle. So extreme tolerance.
The shorter ones were a lot easier.
And suddenly... all four long tubes were fitted with the thicker joint tubes.
Close up... one
three... and four.
Then the transverse tubes.
Building up the 'second floor' made me wanting to be an octopussy. Tubes scrambled to the floor...
...but again... after a long battle, it was all in place.
Strips around to avoid it to fall apart. And a heavy duty dozer bar to force everything together while welding.
The very first spot weld to the spine.
Here's a tunnel view.
Bottom up.. the downside of the spine.
Welded joint (left) and non welded joint (right).
First diagonal tube in place... the rest followed.
First corner tube in place, but I forgot the transverse tube.
So a speciasl cut (for the first two) were made manually
to fit the transverse tube.
As shown here.
Two corner tubes in place.
Almost done...
...only the last two corner tubes missing
along with the last tranverse tube.
Old fashioned marking... with a marker.
This is not calculating.
I cross my fingers that it will work.
Then into the milling machine.
Kind of art.
A bit of luck made it a perfect fit.
Two tubes milled and ready to fit...
...along with the transverse tube.
Spine is now ready to weld...
but only on the down- and inside
End view.
The spine got turned upside down again... access the joints that shall be welded.
And here we go...
It is strong, but it will look too ugly on the visible outside.

I wondered how sturdy the spine construction would be.
How much would it bend downwards if I took a walk on it,
only resting on the most outer joints.
Have a look below.....:

These four rings I did not make myself,
but I did get the tube endings grinded to fit them.
And I did also weld them onto the rear section.
Time for an assemble.
No... there's not two... just from the other side.
Now on to the 16 brackets
that shall hold the spine firm to the cages.
Plates... some milling and drilling... and last bending.
The original filming model had 'L' shaped brackets.
But at this size I feel more confident with the 'U' shape.
All 16 brackets welded onto the four cages.
But that bolt's head doesn't look right.
Special discs were made, and welded onto the head.
And painted red... or... yes it is lava hot!!!
Almost perfect! The bracket should have been a little longer or a bit more narrow, but I wont redo it.
My first drwing of the six flanges for the front frame.
CNC milled. Two pieces from a block of aluminium.
Cut in...
And then Milled again on both sides.
My paint plan, to make it look as on the original 44" Eagle.
Front frame can now be build up.
Now only missing the four tubes for the flanges.
Top (or bottom) flange pair sled on.
Front frame complete with all flanges.
The space needed between front frame and cage...
...are created by extending these short tubes.
Now the cages guiding taps. First some heat...
...then it taps firmly in.
Upper taps longer than lower taps.
The front frame fitted with taps also.
And the rear engine cage section also.
Now for the bearing construstion in the cages.
Guide boxes are made of aluminum plates...
...welded together to form a box.
Ready to go...
First some spots.
I ran out of argon, shown by the black spots.
But after a refill, it could be all cleaned up.
All four boxes ready.
Sled onto the bearing bar and laid on the cage...
...marked up - and then a strange feeling while cutting
in the beautiful cages. But it had to be done.
Gap a bit too small.
Adjusted with a file... but that took too long.
So I got help from an angle grinder.
The boxes in place in cage.
A dozer bar helps keeping the tubes in place.
Ready to see if the bar fit.
It did - and after some small adjustment...
...there were enough free space around.
Tunnel view.
The boxes welded in place.
Cleaned up.
Until a test it looks like the idea will work.
This bearing construction differs from the original Eagle.
The black steel bars were exchanged for stainless ones.
Also stainless steel for the legs. Cutting tube.
Four legs and four tubes to be integrated with the bars.
The two transverse bars.
An angled cut to fit inside the shoulder pods.
Package so far. Back to the wooden parts.
Finding the center of the foot..
Hole drilled through.
To locate center from beneath.
Then drilled larger...
...through two layers of plywood.
And the hole for the stainless leg are done.
The shoulder pods also need some drilling.
Four corner holes.
And then the jigsaw.
And last some filing.
Ready for the inside bar-rest-guide.
45 degree ends.
Four guide-shoes ready to be inserted.
A little step up, make room for...
...a layer of smooth click-floor that I had already.
Outer end (the four bolts are the Saturn V part).
And then checking with a leftover bit of bar.
Fits nice on the inside too.
Back in the machinery, holes were drilled.
These are for attachment inside the shoulder pod.
A special tap welded in one end of the legs.
To fit into the bushing welded into the transverse bar.
The stainless steel bearing parts assembled.
Four 'bearing' feet laser cut. Weighing 35kg each.
A rod welded tight to greet the open end of the leg.
And then having the wooden foot slided down over.
140kg feet on a Euro pallet.
First try on raising half of the construction.
Once tipped up and it stood solid.
Mission completed... for now.
Meanwhile I cut four short aluminium tubes for the flanges that shall connect with the Command Module brackets. Top/bottom shown above...
...and above here are shown the side flange with tube.
First try on raising the complete tube construction.
Spine laying ready on the fork lift.
First the cages are assembled laying down.
The heavy feet mounted. The cages tip by the weight.
Then the cages easily raised up into position.
The spine is a two man job only. Weiging 70-80kg.
It was gripped nice by the U-shaped brackets.
Holes were drilled into the spine...
...and the special made bolts inserted and tightened.

The below two videos... one of the special bolts mounted and then another video of a second 'bridge-walk'.

For scale comparison I added...!
The structure still short of engine bells and command module, which is about 2 extra meters.
Speaking of... check below...
A large package I've had for awhile now... time to open!
Content: 4 large plant pots... say what!?!?
Look at those trumpet endings... no no no.
And sweet flowers and butterflies.
Forward with the anglegrinder.
Grinder fixated to the working table.
Set height.
Off goes the trumpet edge.
Now that's better!
But I need to make an adapter form to connect the
engine bells to the rear engine section frame.
It's not 100% acurate, but I think this will do.
Paint test... Edding silver spray... to pass as aluminum.
Geting ready for the Command Module brackets.
Measuering and lining up...
Had to file a bit in the CM to make the front frame fit.
Perfect fit left / right.
My paint plan to make these solid flanges look as on
the filming model.
A small brick...
To even out the distance at bottom...
...and top.
Perfect fit top / bottom.
front view.
Back view.
Cardboard template for side bracket.
Then another template of wood is made.
Cardboard template for top bracket.
The wooden templates seems to fit well.
Both wooden templates ready to be made in aluminum.
Small spots of rust have appeared on the feet.
So on with some Nutella - and then som Hammerite.
Four feet painted on top...
...and four feet painted beneath.
More discs made for the remaining three thrusters.
First four cuts to make an rectangle, then four
45 degree cuts to make an octagon,
then last eight 22.5 degree cuts.
The rest of the edges are grinded down
to make a circular disc.
The smaller ones screwed together as pairs
to make thicker discs.
And the larger ones connects to the thruster.
All four now done.
However the even smaller ones for the inside
of the aluminum rings are yet to be made.
Four blocks sawed from an old wooden table.
Served on the four rings.
'Rotation' marked for later use.
Also ring marked beneath.
Same procedure as the other end parts.
Sawed slowly in to the circle mark.
That's as close that I get with the table saw.
Just a little too big now. The rest will the band grinder do.
There! It sinks nicely down into the ring.
Because the rings aren't 100% circular, the wooden
disc will lock tight into the ring when turned.
That's exactly the idea.
Now all the discs can be screwed together,
on top of eachother.
One engine bell (stacked on top of the other three).
All four engine bells now ready to be inserted
into their each own dedicated ring on the rear frame.


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